What’s Actually Wrong
A dripping faucet almost always comes down to a worn-out rubber or seal part inside the handle mechanism — which specific part depends on the faucet type. Compression faucets (separate hot and cold handles, common in older homes) usually just need a new washer. Cartridge, ball-type, and ceramic disc faucets need their internal cartridge, ball assembly, or disc seals replaced. None of these are hard to identify once the handle is off, and all of them are cheap, common repair-kit parts.
How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: Quick Overview
The short answer for how to fix a leaky faucet is: identify the faucet type first, then replace the specific worn part inside — a washer, cartridge, ball, or ceramic disc — using the steps below. It’s one of the cheapest plumbing repairs there is. If you’re also dealing with a slow bathroom drain while you’re under the sink, check our bathroom sink drain guide. And if leaks and clogs keep coming back across an older home, it may be worth reading about plumbing repipe costs.
Tools You’ll Need
An adjustable wrench, a flathead screwdriver (to pop off the decorative cap), a Phillips screwdriver, needle-nose pliers, and plumber’s grease. Pick up a universal O-ring and washer assortment kit ahead of time so you have the right size on hand no matter which faucet type you end up with.
Step-by-Step Fix
Shut off the water supply valves under the sink before you touch anything, and plug the drain so you don’t lose a small part down it. Pry off the decorative cap on the handle with a flathead screwdriver, remove the screw underneath, and lift the handle off. For a compression faucet, use a wrench to loosen the packing nut, pull the stem, and replace the worn washer and O-ring at the bottom. For a cartridge faucet, remove the retaining clip with needle-nose pliers and pull the cartridge straight out, then push in a matching replacement. For a ball-type faucet, loosen the hex-head screw, remove the cap and collar, and lift out the ball, spring, and rubber seats, replacing the worn ones. For a ceramic disc faucet, lift out the cylinder, clean the openings with a little vinegar to remove mineral buildup, and swap the neoprene seals. Apply a light coat of plumber’s grease to whatever moving parts you reinstall, reassemble in reverse order, then turn the water back on and run the faucet for a few minutes to confirm the drip is actually gone.
Watch the Repair
Cartridges and washers look different from brand to brand. This walkthrough from Ask This Old House shows the same teardown on a typical kitchen faucet.
Drip stopped, then came back?
A cartridge or washer fix often works once. If the same faucet keeps leaking — or you have hard-water corrosion and an older fixture — compare another DIY parts run against a repair or replace decision.
When to Call a Plumber
If you’ve replaced the obvious wear parts and the faucet still drips, the problem may be a worn valve seat or a crack in the faucet body itself, which usually means replacing the whole faucet rather than repairing it further. If water is leaking from underneath the sink rather than the spout, or you can’t get the water supply valves to fully shut off, stop and call a plumber — that points to a bigger problem in the supply lines, not just the faucet.
As an Amazon Associate, Ultimate Home Fix may earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you. See our Disclaimer / Affiliate Disclosure.
Parts & tools for this fix
Most drips are a washer, O-ring, or cartridge — cheap parts and one careful teardown.
-
Faucet washer & O-ring assortment — Covers common compression-faucet leaks.
Check price on Amazon -
Universal faucet cartridge — Match your old cartridge if the faucet is cartridge-style.
Check price on Amazon → -
Plumber’s silicone grease — Keeps O-rings from tearing on reassembly.
Check price on Amazon → -
Basin wrench — For under-sink mounting nuts.
Check price on Amazon -
Needle-nose pliers — For clips and retainers in tight spots.
Check price on Amazon →
Free: what to ask before you hand this job to a pro
Some of these jobs stop being a DIY the moment you open the wall. When that happens, this one-page checklist is what I run a Texas contractor bid against before signing — licence and insurance, line items, change-order terms, the lien waiver — plus a hail-claim worksheet if a storm is involved. Free, no catch.
