A gas water heater with no hot water is often nothing more than a pilot light that’s gone out — a draft, a dip in gas supply, or a worn thermocouple can all snuff it out. Relighting it is a five-minute job on most tank-style gas water heaters, and this guide walks through it safely from start to finish.
Gas Safety Warning
If you smell gas (a rotten-egg odor) at any point, stop immediately. Do not flip any light switches or create any spark. Leave the water heater’s gas control valve alone, open windows if you can do so on your way out, leave the house, and call your gas utility or 911 from outside. Only relight a pilot light when you’re confident there is no gas smell present.
Relight a Gas Water Heater Pilot Light: Quick Overview
Relighting a water heater pilot light means turning the gas control knob to Pilot, holding it in while you light the pilot flame with the igniter or a long lighter, and holding the knob for about a minute so the thermocouple heats up enough to keep the gas valve open on its own. If the pilot won’t stay lit even after a few tries, the thermocouple has likely worn out and needs replacing — a cheap, DIY-friendly part covered below. If your water heater trips a breaker or the issue turns out to be electrical rather than gas-related, see our guide on how to reset a tripped circuit breaker. And if you’re weighing whether an aging water heater is worth repairing at all, our repair or replace decision tool can help.
What’s Actually Wrong
Pilot lights go out for a few common reasons: a draft from a nearby vent or door, a temporary dip in gas pressure, dust or debris clogging the pilot orifice, or a failing thermocouple — the small copper safety sensor that sits in the pilot flame and signals the gas valve that it’s safe to keep supplying gas. If the pilot relights but won’t stay lit for more than a few seconds once you release the knob, a worn thermocouple is almost always the cause, and it’s an inexpensive part that most homeowners can replace themselves in under 30 minutes.
Tools You’ll Need
- Long fireplace lighter or barbecue lighter
- Flashlight
- Adjustable wrench (only if replacing the thermocouple)
- Replacement thermocouple (only if the pilot won’t stay lit)
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Parts & tools for this fix
Safety first: only relight when there is no gas smell. These are lighting and safety tools — not a push to DIY gas-valve work beyond a simple pilot relight.
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Long fireplace / BBQ lighter — Reach the pilot without putting your hand near the burner opening.
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LED flashlight — See the pilot orifice and control dial clearly in a dark closet or garage.
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Soapy leak-test spray / bottle — After any gas-side work, brush soapy water on fittings and watch for bubbles — stop and call the utility if you see them.
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Carbon monoxide detector — Safety upsell — keep a working CO alarm near sleeping areas and the water heater closet.
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Universal thermocouple (only if pilot will not stay lit) — The page already covers this cheap part when the flame dies the moment you release the knob — if you are not comfortable, call a licensed plumber.
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Step-by-Step: Relighting the Pilot
- Confirm there’s no gas smell. Follow the safety warning above before doing anything else.
- Find the gas control valve. It’s on the front of the water heater near the bottom, usually with a dial labeled Off, Pilot, and On.
- Turn the knob to Off and wait 5 minutes. This clears any residual gas from the burner chamber.
- Turn the knob to Pilot. Most valves require you to push the knob in slightly to allow gas to flow to the pilot.
- Light the pilot. While holding the knob in, use the igniter button if your unit has one, or insert a long lighter through the access port to ignite the pilot flame. Continue holding the knob in for about 60 seconds.
- Release the knob slowly and check the flame. The pilot should stay lit on its own. If it goes out when you release the knob, repeat the process once more, holding slightly longer.
- Turn the knob to On. Once the pilot stays lit consistently, turn the main control to the On position and replace the outer access panel.
- If it still won’t stay lit, the thermocouple likely needs replacing: turn off the gas supply, unscrew the old thermocouple from the gas valve and pilot bracket, install the new one finger-tight plus a quarter turn with a wrench, and repeat the lighting steps above.
Watch the Repair
This is gas, so it is worth watching before you touch anything. Rheem’s own instructions show the wait, the control-knob positions and the igniter sequence on a modern sealed-combustion heater.
Pilot keeps going out — or the tank is aging out?
A one-time relight is normal. If the pilot will not stay lit after a thermocouple check, you smell gas, or the tank is 10–12+ years old with rust-colored water or rumbling, run the numbers before another DIY round.
When to Call a Pro
Call a licensed plumber or your gas utility if you ever smell gas, if the pilot won’t stay lit even after replacing the thermocouple, if you see soot or a yellow (rather than blue) pilot flame, or if the water heater is more than 10-12 years old and showing other signs of failure like rust-colored water or popping noises — at that point a full replacement is often the more sensible move. In Texas that swap needs a permit and a state-licensed plumber; attic and hard-water details are in Texas water heater replacement: permits, attic, and hard water.
Free: what to ask before you hand this job to a pro
Some of these jobs stop being a DIY the moment you open the wall. When that happens, this one-page checklist is what I run a Texas contractor bid against before signing — licence and insurance, line items, change-order terms, the lien waiver — plus a hail-claim worksheet if a storm is involved. Free, no catch.
